Elderton nowadays is the leading producer of Modern Barossa. There was a noticeable change for the style of Elderton wines in the recent vintages: the estate made a move towards fresher, more elegant, more delicate wines and away from those lush, full-bodied, concentrated wines of old. Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon 2024 was bright and graceful on the nose of dried flower, crushed stone, sweet spices, fresh blackberry and scrub. Tension-filled on the palate that had subtle salinity. Well-evolved Command Shiraz 2008 showed nuts, earth, red liquorice and spicy-mineral notes as well as classy structure. Almond nougat, spices and cigar box made up the opulent bouquet of Command Shiraz 2016 that was saline on the finish. Command Shiraz 2021 was dark and chocolaty. Command Shiraz 2022 was austere yet alluring on the nose and palate of animal fur, fresh herb, stone, blackberry and a tint of dried flower. Command Shiraz 2023 was reductive, toasty and lush on the nose while saline yet clean on the palate. Mengler Hil Vineyard acquired in 2023 is one of the highest altitude vineyards in the Barossa, where the 'survivor' old vines are planted on the elevated slopes with sand and gravel over granite and clay soils. The hand-picked and de-stemmed grapes are fermented in cement tanks, as well as French puncheons where the MLF and aging carry out. The production is only 1866 bottles. Sixfold Shiraz 2024 showed incredible grace, brightness and austerity. Dried flower, stone…(for all the details, please subscribe)…underpinned the juiciness, precision and exquisiteness. A feminine effort that could be approachable young but the slight evolvement in bottle would be helpful to buffer such solemnity and pointedness. An exceptional debut. The super flagship Helbig 1915 Shiraz produced in merely 651 bottles was initially released as 'Fifteen Shiraz' prior to being renamed to honor the vineyard's original proprietor and the planting date. Ashmead family has purchased the Helbig Vineyard in Greenock sub-region in 2010. The de-stemmed grapes undergo a cold soak and then punching down gently in French puncheons where the fermentation and maturation take place. Wax-sealed (the only wine under the cork). Made from centenarian old vines grown on sandy soils rich in ironstones, Helbig 1915 Shiraz 2024 was expressive and fragrant on the charming and refined aroma that was full of wild flowers and nutmeg-like sweet spices interwoven with…(for all the details, please subscribe)…that possessed a lovely background of sweet fruit. Drinking so much wonderfully as a young wine, even so, the beauty would further improve after a couple of years' cellaring.