Julian Castagna runs a certified bio-dynamic vineyard where the low-yielding, 30-year-old vines are planted on granitic loams over clay soils. The hand-picked grapes undergo open fermentation in the wooden vats and stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeast, then aging less than 2 years in 30% new French barriques. All Castagna's wines are rare (around 2000 cases in total).

The second time to do the vertical tasting with Julian Castagna at the winery, but this time was a double vertical tasting of Genesis Syrah and Un Segreto. The consequence of the tasting indicated Julian has consistently made refined and balanced wines for decades.

Differ from Giaconda that has more focus on power, the theme of Castagna is invariably the fineness. Mixing five different clones for the Syrah vines. In fact, there is 2% Viognier in blend though it's labelled as 'Syrah'. It's hard to believe a 24-year-old stuff was still so much fresh and young. Nectar, sweet spices (red liquorice predominantly), pomelo peel, raspberry, black tea, cedar and cookie made up the complicated bouquet Genesis Syrah 2002. A tint of tertiary aroma emerged after 15 minutes' aeration. The chocolaty yet acidic palate was sexy, textured and firm, underlining by powdery tannin. Genesis Syrah 2013 had stunning precision on the poised nose of dried flower, blackberry, hawthorn, underbrush and spicy-mineral plus animal fur undertone. Utterly ripe and rounded tannin&fruit dominated the palate. Genesis Syrah 2014 was so much detailed and noble currently, which was even better than that bottle I've tasted in the vertical tasting at the winery 7 years ago. It soared from the glass with airy, perfumed and limpid aromas of…(for all the details, please subscribe)…the tense yet poised finish that was also vivid and flavoursome. Similar in style to Genesis Syrah 2017 but more expressive. Truly amazing for its youthfulness and freshness since the wine has been cellared for over a decade--the opuses made from Julian Castagna normally possess unbelievable longevity. The predominant aroma of Genesis Syrah 2015 was the juicy black cherry intermixed with savoury-mineral, spices, dark plum, cocoa, scrub and dried violet. Showing a bit of salinity on the succulently polished mouthfeel too. The mineral-driven finish was not austere due to the ample fruit. Genesis Syrah 2016 was somewhat 'big' on the nsoe with loads of ripe and fleshy fruit, with preserved plum-like sharp acid. Ripe fruits, spices and stone made up the nose of Genesis Syrah 2018 that was fleshy on the taste. In fact, I have tasted Genesis Syrah 2019 with Julian 7 years ago, which was already stunning and promising though the wine was still in barrels. Imperceptible‌ reduction disappeared after 15 minutes' aeration, with alluring and classy sniff that was composed of nectar, jasmine tea…(for all the details, please subscribe)…led to striking tension and compactness so that still too young to drink it now. Just like the 2014 Jamet Cote-Rotie, this was an almost Bourgogne-like Syrah, whose nose would probably redolent of the first-rate Clos de la Roche. Noted less oak was used from the 2017 (previously using 50% new oak). Genesis Syrah 2021 was delightful indeed on the scent while more austere on the taste. Same to Un Segreto 2021, the faint sense of density faded rapidly in the cup, with somewhat restrained yet graceful and clean smells of…(for all the details, please subscribe)…had a lovely backdrop touch of succulent fruit. This superb effort would age beautifully for at least 30 years. That's what I always say, the greatest wines must be those can genuinely express the winemakers themselves, and must be those able to reveal decennary stability.

Un Segreto 2013 sniffed of undergrowth, dried flower, stone, spices and black plum. Polished yet tense and compact. Incredible longevity though it's made from a tough vintage. Un Segreto 2014 was feminine in style. Ginger, spices, raspberry, stone and dried flower notes. Refined and acidic while austere and bright. The nose of Un Segreto 2015 was full of fleshy fruits and depths (leather, chocolate, spices). Very salty on the mouthfeel. Un Segreto 2016 was a bit shy, with fleshy fruitiness and sweet florality. Very sharp, explosive acid and subtle salinity made up the taste. Un Segreto 2017 displayed austere and fresh noses of jasmine tea, raspberry, crushed stone, herb and cinnamon. Stunning acid filled the mineral-driven palate. Slightly lush Un Segreto 2018 showed loads of ripe fruit as well as a tint of nectar-like sweet florality. On the sniff of Un Segreto 2019, showing depth in the background of scrub and spices but also presenting lovely freshness of minerality, fruitiness and florality. Approachable on the perfumed taste. Un Segreto 2021 was subtly dense at the beginning. Dried cherry, tomato, earth, spices, stone and dried flower notes. Fresh and precise on the austere taste.

The single vineyard Viognier Ingenue crafted in merely 5 barrels is the flagship white wine of the estate. Whole bunch pressing, and aging in the completely old oak barrels. Like a top-end Condrieu. Ingenue Viognier 2023 was crystalline, fragrant and refreshing. Stone…(for all the details, please subscribe)…overall it's still admirable, endearing and finesse-styled. Exciting indeed. Certainly the best Aussie Viognier I've ever drunk so far.

Growers' Selection Harlequin 2024 exuded gold hues in color generated from the skin contact and the character of the varieties. Aromatically clean. Beautiful acid. Adam's Rib The White 2024 possessed the fragrant and juicy characters (yellow peach, apricot) of Viognier alongside with subtle reduction and mineral backdrop of Chardonnay that accounts for 70% in blend. Somewhat dense but fresh and clean.